Street Photography Is Not Allowed
Street photography has always been about documenting people in their surroundings. Whether it’s the incredibly artistic work of Fan Ho or the documentary work of Steve McCurry, whichever way you look at it, at its core, street photography involves people.
However, what if this isn’t allowed? I’m from the UK, and according to the statistics on this blog, most of you are from the US. We both have the privilege of living in a (relatively) free country as far as street photography is concerned. We can go out and take photos of anyone in a public place, and assuming there is no malicious intent, this is perfectly legal (this isn’t legal advice). I want to emphasise the word legal, not moral.
While we have these privileges, in many countries, rightly or wrongly, street photography isn’t as straightforward as one might think. For example, in the UAE, having recognisable people in your shots can land you in trouble if those people report you to the police. In some parts of Europe, the legality around photographing others is murky. Some countries are even considering laws banning the sharing of photos of recognisable people online, even if they were taken in public.
I’m not here to debate what’s right or wrong, if it’s morally ok, or if your rights as a free citizen are being stripped away. What I can do is offer practical tips if you happen to find yourself in a country with such limitations.
Avoid Faces
This is by far the easiest option. Avoid taking photos where people’s faces are visible. There are many ways of shooting where the face is covered by angle, light, or objects. I’d suggest avoiding the lazy option of only photographing people from behind.
Silhouettes
Yes, this can be incredibly cliché and repetitive, however it’s one of the best ways to keep your subject’s identity hidden, add mystery to the photo, and create something a bit more artistic. All you need is good light, contrast, and a well-defined subject.
Scenes Over Subjects
Rather than focusing on individual subjects, try to capture scenes where people are part of the bigger picture rather than the focal point. In many cases, people will be very small in your frame and faces won’t be clearly visible.
Go Abstract – Motion / Diffusion / Reflections
You can add motion blur to your shots to mask identities and create more artistic, abstract images. Use this selectively so you don’t end up with 100 identical photos.
You can also use elements in your environment to add reflections or diffusion. This allows you to hide faces or create something more unique without revealing identifiable features.
Exclude People Entirely
You can go one step further and remove people from your shots entirely, even if their identities would be hidden. While this approach isn’t for everyone, and I personally feel a human element adds to an image, it’s still perfectly valid. A good friend of mine, Dubai-based photographer Preet, has been shooting like this for a long time. I’ve linked his profile below for you to check out.
https://www.instagram.com/visualsbypreet
Important Note
Even if you do everything in your power to hide identities, the fact remains that to outside observers, you might look like you’re taking photos of them. Be prepared to explain and show what you’re doing because street photography is incredibly niche. The vast majority of people outside our little world have no idea what it is and often assume our hobby is something fit for creeps or weirdos. With that in mind, always approach every situation with empathy and situational awareness.
Have a Plan
In the unlikely event that someone will stop you, make sure to have a clear plan on how to deascalte the situation and assure the person that there is no malicious intent. This could be with a QR code taking them to your Instagram page, it could be a small business card, or even a pocket sized zine with your work. The medium doesnt matter as long as you can clearly and quickly explain to someone who you are, and what you do. Show them the photo, and if it’s a good one, offer to send it to them later. This will diffuse most situations.
Instead of telling you how these will change your life, I would rather be practical and answer the most common questions that people tend to have when buying presets.
What are presets?
They are editing settings that are saved in a file and can be applied to any image.
Why do people buy presets?
Sometimes because they like the work of the photographer and want that style for their own photos. Mostly because they would like to see how other people edit and learn by reverse engineering the presets. Other times it’s just to support their favourite photographers, thank you!
What’s the overall style of these presets?
- Filmic
- Minimal
- Soft
- Bright
What are these presets suitable for?
Street & Travel Photography
Some Nature (with further editing)
Some Portraits (with extensive editing)
What do these presets look like?
These presets 100% reflect my current editing style. Please see examples of work below.
Do these presets get updated?
Yes, as my style changes, these presets will also be updated. Any time a new update is available, you will get a free update via email. Of course you also keep all the old presets in case you prefer the older looks. Only presets purchased from 2025 onwards will receive the updates.
What file types are these presets for?
- All RAW files
- JPEGs & TIFFs (not recommended)
What camera brands are these presets for?
These were designed around Fujifilm, Sony, and Leica sensors. With that said, they will work with all camera brands. While there might be subtle colour changes due to individual camera colour science, the overall feel of the preset will carry over.
Will these work with JPEG files?
Yes, but you will need to reduce the intensity and make further edits. I strongly recommend editing RAW files.
Are these one click edits?
95% No. You would need to do some basic adjustments as each image is different. These adjustments can include exposure, colour balance etc. In 5% of cases you can just apply and leave it alone.
Do I need to know how to edit?
You need to have a basic understanding of adjusting exposure, highlights, shadows, etc. A more comprehensive editing skillset will let you get the most out of them.
How many presets are included?
15 in the main pack and 20 in the extras pack
Why two packs?
The main pack is what I use for 99% of my edits. The extras pack is random test presets, one-off looks, and looks I don’t use often.
What software do I need?
These presets will work with any of the following:
- Photoshop (adobe camera raw)
- Lightroom Classic
- Lightroom Desktop
- Lightroom Mobile
Will these presets work with free versions of the above software?
You need to research and double check before buying. These presets were designed for the full paid versions.
Will these presets work with very old versions of the above software?
You need to research and double check before buying. These presets were designed on and for the latest software.
What file type do I get?
XMP
What else do I get?
- Comprehensive PDF guide
- Short video of me editing using these presets
Can I modify these and turn them into my own?
Yes! In fact I encourage you to modify them and play around. Use these to help you get your own style.
I have more questions…. What do I do?
Make a cup of tea and drop me an email on hello@snapsbyfox.com
Please note that due to the nature of digital products, refunds are generally not accepted. However, if you experience any issues, feel free to contact me and I’ll review your situation individually. You are welcome to use this product for personal or commercial projects, but you may not copy, distribute, or resell the files in their original or modified form.
Finally I want to say a massive thank you for supporting me. Buying these presets is the most direct way you can support my work thus allowing me to make more videos / photos / tutorials for you.
Thank you for your support!